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Старый 09.03.2016, 02:38   #1
Jim
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По умолчанию Toyota Land Cruiser 1993 80 Series VAF to MAF on 1FE-FZ

My aim with this conversion is to better improve the metering of the air volume going into the engine and to stop the tendency for the VAF unit leaning the AFR at high RPM.
The reason I want to fix this AFR at high RPM is I plan to install a turbo setup. There are many options out there where you can add a piggy back computer and a extra injector. To me this does not solve the problem it just masks the problem. And it poor's more fuel in. I still want the truck to be as economical as possible as they love to suck the gas anyway so no point throwing more in.
I brought 2 of these converters in April 2015. They aren't a huge price tag so another reason I decided to purchase. If it wasn't meant to be it wouldn't be a huge loss.
Its taken me basically up to now (2 weeks ago), to actually get one installed and map it all.
Now speaking English and Pin the manufacture speaking Russian, communication was bound to be a little difficult. But Pin has been absolutely fantastic. I've got strings of emails here backwards and forwards, he converted all the software to English, all the wiring info, and how to actually use the software as I had no idea. I'm still only scrapping the surface of what this software and converter can do.
The below is not how Pin is going to tell you how to do it, but I like to jump the gun and once i'm in doing something i'll carry on until I figure it out even if I don't get the same out come the conventional way.

This is a list of what parts I used for the conversion
Removed VAF P/N:22250-66020
Installed MAF P/N:22250-66050
Toyota connector P/N:90980-11317
Toyota pins P/N:82998-12440
AEM wideband O2

I have had the AEM wideband O2 installed for quite sometime as I wanted to prove to myself that the VAF was causing lean and uncontrolled conditions, so I have a good idea what AFR the engine normally operates at, it is normally on the richer side down low 12-13:1
The MAF I installed was off the latter model 1997 80 series land cruiser when they changed the computer system from OBD1 to OBDII. I went with this meter as I know it is already sized for this engine, it has a THA output (IAT sensor) so no having to sort something else out there. This MAF was a little harder to source but I think it was the right descion. There is the Landtank MAF housing out there and I was keen to go for it but the cost put me off if this wasn't going to work.
The only issue I came across was the VAF has a switch in it for the fuel pump relay. Pin has now sorted me out how to control this now. Will put this information up as I go through this writeup.

I couldn't figure out how to get the software to do an initial map of the old VAF. So I pulled it out and installed the MAF, jumped the 2 fuel relay pins so the fuel pump is always running at the moment.
It took a bit to get started as I had no idea what I was doing, I would crank and the O2 would give me a brief AFR so I would move the graph a bit unit I got it running very lumpy and really rich. I knew the VAF had an output oppersite to the new MAF, so I clicked invert box and then turned on the auto correction. This lets the engine run a lot better. And from here I started to build my mapping table. You can see from the photo's how it developed. this really average looking table was all done with the truck stationary through different RPM's. This table was rubbish on the road though, with flat spots, lean rich, engine stuttering etc. The final table I have made runs the truck perfect now.

I will continue writing this when I get another few moments free.
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Старый 12.03.2016, 13:36   #2
Pin
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Hi Jim
Thanks for your feeedback.

I have analized your log files and found a lot of noises on all inputs.
Here is it
Нажмите на изображение для увеличения
Название: Noise.jpg
Просмотров: 469
Размер:	194.6 Кб
ID:	1939

If you zoom in and then will try to move through your log( right mouse button+ dragging to loft or right) you will see a lot of spikes.
This is not good.
The problems causes this spikes could be:
1. Wrong power supply ground point for the converter , airflow meter and WBOS controller.
The better way is to take supply ground for all of this devices from one point which is one of the ECU mounting bolt .

2. Ignition Noises. Please check the highvoltage ignition cables at night for lighting or sparking. If you will see lighting or sparking on the surface of this cables, they need to be replaced with new.
Also check all spark plugs( also a gap between electrodes of each)
If any spark plug has a too big gap between electrodes it may causes misfires and as a result of this the noises which we can see in the log.

Последний раз редактировалось Pin; 12.03.2016 в 13:40.
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Старый 17.03.2016, 16:13   #3
Jim
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Хорошо

Thanks for looking at the logs Pin.
I will look into the spikes when I'm home working on the truck next. I'm running all shielded wire also so I should get around to connecting the shields to ground that will also help
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Старый 18.03.2016, 16:00   #4
Jim
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Photo's of the first stage install the initial tune that was very rough.
Graph also of the finish tune for now, will continue once the turbo is installed.
Изображения
       
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Старый 22.03.2016, 02:16   #5
Jim
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The wiring pin outs I used. I could never find the pin out for the MAF airflow meter in any of the Manuals. I think I ended up finding it on the original, VAF to MAF conversion forum on IH8mud.com.
Вложения
Тип файла: pdf Converter wiring.pdf (158.0 Кб, 228 просмотров)
Тип файла: pdf TPS & ECU PIN OUT.pdf (148.3 Кб, 223 просмотров)
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Старый 24.03.2016, 15:18   #6
Jim
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You will notice in the diagrams that the VAF has a built in fuel pump switch so that when the flapper first moves open on the initial crank of the engine the fuel pump is told to start running.
The MAF does not have this feature, so I asked for Pin help here. Attached is what he said most of the guys run that he knows of.
It's just running off the coil.
I've attached both the original and my drawing. I have modded slightly as I just want the relay to connect and disconnect the original 2 wires for my pump. so no real load being carried by the relay.
Миниатюры
Нажмите на изображение для увеличения
Название: fuel_pump_relay.jpg
Просмотров: 439
Размер:	17.0 Кб
ID:	1969   Нажмите на изображение для увеличения
Название: Screen Shot 2016-03-24 at 7.17.09 PM.jpg
Просмотров: 394
Размер:	21.1 Кб
ID:	1970  
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Старый 24.03.2016, 15:42   #7
Jim
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This is as far as I have got so far. Turbo is currently being installed, in spare time. And I need to build the circuit board above. Have got all the components ordered.

I always mount the oil feed off a flexi line as if that small line breaks its all over pretty quickly. I learnt this from someone else when I was building my jet boat.

As you can see my filter box is reasonably modified, 4 inch stainless steel 45degree bend chopped and welded to a tight 90degree then heated and squashed to fit the lid nut back on and to fit under the bonnet.

Everything will be excessively wrapped to titanium lava rock weave heat wrap. That stuff is amazing. I don't even bother about the old white wrap anymore, this new stuff can handle twice the heat continuous.

Water to air intercooler setup is already installed, water to airs are more effecent than air to airs in my option and can fit them in tighter spaces. The radiator for this system is mounted with 10" fan on seperate temp controller. I found these temp controllers that have a good range of adjustability, not 100% if they will work yet but for $3 each can't go wrong.

Also running an oil cooler, thermostat controlled sandwich plate under the oil filter.

And running seperate cooler for the automatic trans, wanted to get the trans oil out of the main radiator to help prevent heat build up in the cooling system.

Both the Oil cooler and trans cooler share another 10" fan, this will also be on its own temp controller
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Старый 30.03.2016, 12:03   #8
Pin
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Wow - its great !
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